California Car-Camping (Where to Go, How to Do It, and Where to Find the World’s Best Cherry Pie)
- Tate Drucker
- Mar 3, 2023
- 26 min read
If you can find that sweet spot where your feet lie perfectly between the driver’s and passenger’s seats, and you fold down the seat in the back, then you can comfortably lay down in a Prius and have the hatchback window above your head, which acts like a kind of skylight.
That’s what I discovered one day in my driveway in San Francisco.
The idea came to me one day that I could, in theory, sleep in my car if I wanted to. So I put it to the test one chilly March afternoon, and the discovery that I could lay down comfortably in my car felt like a green light.
So of course, the next logical was to put this idea to the test. I threw odds and ends into the back of my car, and took off south. I didn’t have any expectations or destinations in mind, except for one: I had to find wildflowers. (It was March in California and after a heavy rainy season, the flowers were ready to burst into a “superbloom,” carpeting the deserts and hills of Southern California).
But other than that, I was open to the pull of whatever direction felt magnetic at the moment, and I’d sleep in my car for the sake of ease and, honestly, just because I could.
It was that trip that got me hooked to the spontaneity of California road tripping, especially when I had the freedom to turn my car into my temporary mobile home. Suddenly the roads and destinations become endless. And when I think back on my time living in California, and the numerous road adventures I had on my own, and all the deserts and mountains and funky little roadside towns I found along the way, it’s clear that these are most important and precious California memories of mine.
It’s because of that significance that I think everyone should do something similar, at least once. I hope this post gives some ideas and inspiration for a California road trip, as I’ve pieced together some of my favorite destinations I’ve discovered while on the road. I’ve also tried to offer some logistical advice for car-camping in general, whether you do it in California, Colorado, or far beyond.
Why sleep in a car instead of a tent or hotel?
Let’s address the obvious question first.
Why would I choose to sleep in my car if I could stay in a hotel or pitch a tent instead?
Sleeping in a hotel significantly limits your options as to where you can spend the night because, of course, you can only stay where there’s a hotel with available rooms in your price range. For me, I wanted the ability to change my direction at any given moment, and making hotel bookings or seeking one out for the night would eliminate that the sense of spontaneity. Many times on my road trips I would change my mind about one destination and go somewhere else, whether due to inclement weather, meeting people who convinced me to sway one way instead of the other, or simply because I was suddenly drawn to something I didn’t foresee. In addition, sleeping in a car kept costs down significantly, especially compared to hotels in or around national parks.
On occasion in the Sierra Mountains I would run into bad enough weather (i.e. snow), and I would opt to stay in a hostel in Mammoth Lakes or Lake Tahoe. And honestly, I did occasionally enjoy the company of the characters I met in my favorite mountain hostels.
As for a tent, it really just came down to the ease I got from sleeping in my car.
The ease, and frankly, enjoyment, stemmed from my first morning on a road trip like this. I had driven from San Francisco down to Antelope Valley, arriving well after sunset and only pulling over on the side of a dirt road to sleep long after the sun went down. I crawled into the back, wiggled into my sleeping bag, and fell asleep with a full view of the desert stars (once again, I’m eternally grateful for the Prius’s hatchback window).
When I woke up just before sunrise, I found that I had pulled over in a meadow blanketed, and I mean blanketed, in yellow wildflowers and neon orange poppies, tangled at the base of cacti and crooked Joshua trees. The beauty of the sight was so overwhelming that I propelled myself into the front seat, and all I had to do was turn on the engine and take off down a random road I spotted that seemed to lead further into the static waves of wildflowers. No taking down a tent. No packing up camp. Just hop in the front and go.
That had me hooked.
Everything was instant, which made these trips feel all the more spontaneous, but also, in a way, more personal. I could go anywhere I wanted to go, and I could go whenever I wanted. It was up to me alone to choose a road to go down, and see what I could find at the other end of it.
My Ultimate California Road Trip
If I could piece together all my favorite places I’ve ever car camped in California, it would comprise of the following list.
It’s missing places like Yosemite and the Redwood Forest, but given the incredible amount of information already available on those destinations, I decided to go with places either a little more off the beaten track, or places more special and sentimental to me.
Every spring, hundreds (or thousands?) of Californians eagerly refresh the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve Facebook page, waiting to see when the first poppies have bloomed on the rolling hills cradling Lancaster. The green hills explode with orange and red poppies, and meandering trails snake through the flowers, allowing visitors to enjoy the bloom up close and personal.
Social media (namely Instagram) has brought Antelope Valley’s poppies to the forefront of most influencers’ arty Instagram pages. And the crowded parking areas and trails humming with girls in dresses and their iPhone-wielding entourage definitely can make it hard to feel alone amongst the flowers. However, I do think that the views are worth the hassle, and I did manage to find empty enough trails for sitting and looking out over the flowers on my own for a little while.
Where to sleep: Saddleback Butte State Park Campground
$20 per night for one site (first come, first serve)
37 sites that include a table, BBQ grill, fire ring
Campground open 24 hours a day
Ablution block with flush toilet and sinks, no showers
Saddleback Butte State Park is located 35 miles from the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve, which is the reason why people come to the area. The campground sits atop a road that overlooks the Mojave Desert, and is adorned with Joshua trees and wildflowers in the spring.
When I first visited the Poppy Reserve, I was looking for a place to car camp that was well outside Lancaster’s city limits, but not far enough from the reserve that I felt like it was too much of a pain to drive to-and-from (the drive is about 40-45 minutes from Saddleback Butte). This campground was the perfect place to pull into after my drive from San Francisco, and was the perfect jumping off point before heading to the Poppy Reserve the next day (or taking a day to hike along some of the mild-to-moderate trails that meander through the state park).
Plus, arriving at dark and waking up to an empty campground covered in desert flora and brilliant wildflowers made it all the more memorable.
When to visit: Typically March, but depends on when the poppies bloom
Keep updated with the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve Facebook page in order to know when the poppies are at their peak bloom; however, you can expect the bloom to usually happen sometime in March. But always check before setting out; seeing the reserve at peak bloom is famous for a reason.
2. Anza-Borrego Desert State Park
About 200 miles south of Antelope Valley is one of the most memorable places I ever came across during my time living in California.
I learned about Anza-Borrego Desert State Park when I was searching for the best places to see wildflowers in California, and despite it being the largest park in the state by a landslide (600,000 acres make up this sprawling desert landscape), I’d never heard of it before. But curiosity got the best of me, and I drove the three hours south to see for myself.
Anza-Borrego is special. Why?
It’s immense.
It feels like you’ve stumbled upon something no one else knows about (my visit there was practically void of other travelers)
It’s home to bighorn sheep, magenta cactus blooms, brilliantly yellow brittle brush, and is a hotspot for California’s spring superbloom
It’s a desert landscape cradled by steep, rocky, sunburnt orange mountains; an incredible setting for a desert adventure.
A small, funky desert town called Borrego Springs lies at the heart of the park (perfect for refueling your car, restocking your mobile pantry, or trying to find all the bizarre iron sculptures that are famously hidden throughout the town and its surroundings)
Anza-Borrego has one visitor’s center where visitors can obtain maps detailing the vast array of hiking trails, lookout points and areas of interest (such as the Palm Canyon Oasis, which is a gentle 3-mile hike along a river lined with palm trees that look like they belong in a Dr. Seuss book). However, there are countless trails to choose from, and you will often feel that you have them all to yourself.
Where to sleep: Anywhere
One of the biggest perks of exploring Anza-Borrego is that visitors are free to camp anywhere they want, and for zero cost. The park only requests that campers and car-campers follow these Leave No Trace guidelines:
You must park no more than one car length off the side of the road, however, you are allowed to walk however far you want into the bush if you decide to pitch a tent
You must camp at least 100 yards from any water source
You must bring your own firewood and kindling (no snapping branches for your evening campfire!), and be sure to carry the ashes out when you leave
And of course, follow the rest of the Leave No Trace principles (which anyone who goes camping should be familiar with).
This is true rough camping - there are no toilets, no showers, no running water. But there is no one else around you aside from the coyotes and the stars and your own company. Every other day I’d roll into Borrego Springs — that little sunburnt town in the center of the park — and refill on whatever I needed (such as a hot cup of coffee, water, a tin of beans, and occasionally, a much-needed freshening up using running water in the bathroom of a retro diner).
I ended up spending five days and five nights in Anza-Borrego, often changing where I slept each night, depending on the night sky I wanted to photograph, where I wanted to watch the sunset, where I wanted to wake up and explore at sunrise. I sat on top of my car with a bottle of wine and Jose Gonzales playing on my phone and watched a meteor shower. I wandered through cacti as the sun peaked over the hills, filling the desert with a pleasant surge of warmth, like it was dropping a blanket across the valley where I stood.
When to visit: Early spring
Similarly to Antelope Valley, Anza-Borrego truly comes alive when it’s draped in a sea of desert wildflowers. If you visit Antelope Valley and then continue onward to Anza-Borrego, there’s a good chance that the wildflower blooms will overlap, and you’ll be able to see both parks at their peaks.
However, if you want to be sure that you don’t miss the bloom, there is a Wildlife Hotline you can call to get the latest information on the wildflowers blooming in the park, and when they expect a peak.
Wildflower Hotline: +1 760-767-4684
Even if the wildflowers aren’t your priority, I still recommend visiting in winter or early spring, as Anza-Borrego’s average temperature skyrockets by early April, and lasts well into autumn. Even in March you’ll experience days in the 70s and 80s, and comfortable nights in the 50s. Take advantage of this pleasant window, and aim to visit the park around this time of year.
2. Alabama Hills
When you’re sitting in your car in Anza-Borrego and looking at the map of California splayed on your lap, it feels like the entirety of California is sitting on your shoulders and you’re staring up at it, thinking, where should I go next? Everything is up from here.
And when you look at it that way, it’s true. Anza-Borrego is nestled at the bottom of the state like a rock sitting at the bottom of a lake. As you make your way up north — really the only way to go from there — it can be overwhelming to decide on where to stop next, as there are plenty of worthwhile sights along the way.
There’s Joshua Tree National Park
There’s the Salton Sea and Slab City (made famous by the movie Into the Wild)
There’s Death Valley National Park, and Sequoia National Park
But sitting sandwiched between those two latter national parks, and not even detectable on Google Maps, are the epic Alabama Hills.
The Alabama Hills are worth writing about.
The eastern slope of the Sierra Mountains abruptly falls into a high desert, where building-sized boulders sit frozen mid-topple on top of one another, and bizarre rock formations create labyrinths of golden arches. Climbers, mountain bikers and hikers feel like they’ve found Eden. And the backdrop is inarguably breathtaking: steep, awe-inspiring mountains often dusted in thick layers of snow, offering incredible contrast to the warm high desert below.
For those who want to venture into the formidable peaks, this is also where ambitious hikers will find the trailhead for summiting Mount Whitney, the tallest mountain in the contiguous United States (14,505 ft). The road from the desert snakes up into the hills and ends at a shady parking lot. The trail unceremoniously begins in the shade of magnificent pines and leads up through meadows, past alpine lakes that your toes will beg to be dipped into, and offers spectacular views back toward the desert floor far below. Even for day hikes or those not keen to make it to the summit, there are gems to be found in these meandering high mountain trails.
Back down the mountains and five miles down the road that took you to the Alabama Hills is the humble town of Lone Pine, which seems to be have been plucked straight out of a movie set with its neon motels, old saloons, and boarded up drive-in theater. There’s also a simple grocery store and gas station, which is good for restocking firewood, ice, gas and basic food necessities.
However simple, Lone Pine has one hidden gem: the Alabama Hills Cafe and Bakery, which I discovered one morning when I was on the hunt for an extra large mug of coffee and anything warm to eat. The cafe was humming with locals as kids stuck their forks into steaming stacks of Oreo pancakes and weathered men wearing wide-brimmed hats flipped through newspapers. I was graced with a window seat (which looked over a parking lot, but I reveled in its humility), a big mug of coffee, and a thick slab of cherry pie on a chipped ceramic plate, which my waitress informed me was the best cherry pie you’d find this side of the Sierra.
“Locals cherries, them,” she said, gesturing to the slice on the tacky counter in front of me. "Best cherry pie maybe even in the whole dang world.”
Where to sleep: Anywhere or Tuttle Creek Campground
Just like Anza-Borrego, the Alabama Hills are part of the Bureau of Land Management, which means you can camp anywhere, and you can camp for free. And just like Anza-Borrego, this is what made the Alabama Hills extra memorable for me. The freedom of picking out the perfect place to park and make my campfire every night was addicting, and allowed for a sincere sense of being one-on-one with the mountains, the boulders and the high desert.
For those looking to camp somewhere with running taps, toilets, picnic tables and fire rings, there’s also the scenic Tuttle Creek Campground. Some details include:
$5 per night per site
83 tent and car/RV sites
No reservations
Open year-round
Potable water is available from March till October
I chose to spend one night at Tuttle Creek Campground, and then four following nights choosing my own camping sites in the Alabama Hills.
Although the flush toilets, running water, and convenience of a pre-established fire ring were benefits of the campground, I much preferred the ruggedness of camping in the heart of the Alabama Hills. While Tuttle Creek has stunning views of the mountains, the campground is about five miles from the heart of soul of the Alabama Hills, which is where the fantastic rock formations, boulders and arches are. Five miles doesn’t seem like much, but there was something incredible about waking up at sunrise and seeing the morning alpenglow on the rock towers and natural cathedrals that encased wherever I decided to pull over and sleep that night.
When to visit: Late Spring, Summer or Early Fall
Ultimately, when you decide to go to the Alabama Hills depends entirely on what experience you’re looking for. If you want to take the road up Mount Whitney and hike on her slopes — or to the summit — then going when most snow has melted (or hasn’t arrived yet!) is ideal. Also, if you plan to camp and sleep in your car, going when nights are warmer will allow for a more pleasant and restful experience. This is also when mountain passes in the Sierras are typically open (though always check!), allowing for easier access.
However, some of the most spectacular scenes are being down in the golden valley and looking up at the snow-capped Sierras. This is why many photographers opt to go in winter or early spring, so they can capture the contrast of orange arches against a backdrop of immense, towering snowy peaks. But more consideration has to go into camping in the winter and staying warm, as well as being sure that mountain passes are open when your plan your route.
4. Mammoth Lakes, Mono Lake, Bodie Ghost Town and the Southern Sierras
Done with the desert and ready to gain elevation, I said goodbye to the Alabama Hills and began the drive up into the Sierra Mountains.
Before you know it, the desert shrubs and sprawling cattle farms give way to forests thick and dark with ponderosa pines, Douglas-firs, cedars and sugar pines. Patches of snow begin to appear like dollops of sloshed coffee cream along the side of the highway, and the once-distant views of the Sierras are now ringed around you, endlessly reappearing on the horizon just as one summit vanishes in the rearview mirror.
Here are some of my favorite stops along the way.
Wild Willy’s Hot Springs
Not long after you begin snaking up from the valley floor are the Wild Willy’s Hot Springs, located about 100 miles (or two hours) from the Alabama Hills, and 15 miles (or 30 minutes) from the town of Mammoth Lakes.
Located on BLM land (so again, feel free to camp here — for free!) are a cluster of natural hot springs, hidden three miles off the main highway. To reach the hot springs, you’ll turn off US 395 — the main highway — and take Benton Crossing Road. Drive east for about 2.5 miles until you cross over two cattle grates, and then turn right just past the second cattle guard. Follow the road and always taking the left fork whenever there's a choice. Eventually you’ll arrive at a wide parking area, where you may see cars or sporadic tents pitched in the grassy meadow. From there, it’s a short walk down a boardwalk to the hot springs.
Depending on the time of year, the weather, and the day of the week, the hot springs could have only a handful of people, or no people, or you’ll feel like you’re bumping shoulders with others.
I went to Wild Willy’s in November during an early afternoon, and was with about 15 or 20 other people. They were quiet and respectful — a couple sharing a bottle of wine, a few boys from UC Berkeley drinking beer, another two solo travelers like myself, a family having a picnic, and so on — but it’s good to arrive here knowing that you may be in the company of some — or a lot — of other people. Even though the drive there can feel like you’re finding something no one else knows about, the crowds can be surprising.
But is it worth the stop for an hour or two? Definitely. Who doesn’t want to have a soak in a hot spring in the middle of the mountains? Especially if you’ve just been bouldering in the Alabama Hills, hiking steep trails in pursuit of wildflowers in Anza-Borrego, or just want to lay in what feels like a medicinal lagoon for a little while.
Mammoth Lakes
My time in Mammoth Lakes has always been brief, as I’ve used it mostly as stopovers while traveling up or down the spine of the Sierras.
However, this charming mountain town deserves a stopover, and my experiences there chatting with locals at the Mammoth Brewing Company, watching the sunset with a thermos of coffee over one of the many tiny lakes dotting the surrounding area, or just reading a book and having a hot shower at the local hostel made it worthwhile.
Where to sleep: Twin Lakes Campground or Moderne Hostel
Depending on what time of you roll through Mammoth Lakes will most likely play a big role in where you decide to spend the night. Sitting in a cradle of ski slopes at almost 8,000 ft, the town of Mammoth Lakes is true to its alpine climate, and makes it considerably difficult to sleep outside during late fall, winter, and early spring (not to mention that campsites are usually closed during this time, so if you opt on sleeping in your car, you’ll have to be careful about where you pull over to make sure you’re not disobeying any loitering laws).
So for those arriving in the winter — or just deciding to stay indoors for a night with a hot shower — the Moderne Hostel is conveniently located near the center of town, and offers comfortable rooms, a roomy kitchen and communal area, and ample parking. There’s even a free shuttle to the heart of town if you decide to have a few drinks at one of Mammoth’s many breweries and want to leave your car at the hostel. Just note that no pets are allowed, so if you’re traveling with your furry companion, keep this in mind.
Otherwise, the Twin Lakes Campground is a beautiful seasonal campsite, offering roomy sites for $24 per night. Within the campground there’s a general store, lakefront access, bike paths, showers and toilets, and each site has a picnic table and campfire area.
Mono Lake & Bodie Ghost Town
Just 32 miles north from Mammoth Lakes is Mono Lake — and you will know you’ve found something special when you see it crest into view from the careening highway.
Mono Lake formed at least 760,000 years ago and is considered to be one of the oldest lakes in the Western Hemisphere. Its stunning sprawl against a backdrop of Sierra peaks is worth the sight in and of itself, but the lake is especially known for its tufa towers. Limestone columns (tufa towers) stand like enormous, erect sand castles from the alkaline water.
The lake can be reached via an obvious turnoff (look for the sign) from the minuscule town of Lee Vining, where the Mono Basin Scenic Area Visitor Center is. Not only is the information provided within the center fascinating and gives detailed descriptions of the unique ecosystem in the lake, but this is also where an accessible trail is that leads you down to the lake. There you can walk along its shore and get up close with the fragile, towering tufas.
One hour north of Mono Lake is Bodie Ghost Town.
Bodie was a California boom town in 1876 after the discovery of gold. Only three years after it was founded, the population was between 5,000 and 7,000 residents.
However, after a decline in local resources and gold, it was abandoned and officially declared a ghost town in 1915. Since then, the town has been preserved just as it was left, and many of its buildings are still standing. In fact, visitors can still see the original furniture in homes, school desks and chalkboards in the schoolhouse, tinned goods from the 1800s in the general store, a pool table in the saloon with its billiards balls still splayed across the dusty surface; even shoes still sit by the entrances to some homes.
If you plan to visit in winter, you just have to check with the local road authority (+1 800-845-7922) to see if the dirt road to Bodie is open (as it can be impacted by snow or excessive rain). For more information on their hours, visit the official Bodie website.
From here, there are two main options.
Go back toward Lee Vining and turn west and head to Yosemite National Park (80 miles)
Continue north, past Bodie, and onto Lake Tahoe (107 miles)
I love Yosemite. The whole world loves Yosemite. And the meandering drive there from Lee Vining is undoubtedly beautiful and something I’ve done many times over, and hope you do someday as well. But I can’t make a post about my favorite places for a California without talking about Lake Tahoe.
5. Lake Tahoe
I first learned about Lake Tahoe when I was 13 years old and saw a photo of it in a magazine laying splayed on the waiting room table in my dentist’s office. I don’t even remember the magazine or the context of the photo; I just remember the picture itself. Tumbling, round boulders leading to a stretch of white sand beach, curved delicately along a shore of impossibly turquoise, impossibly clear water; so clear that even in the photo could see the shapes of emerald green boulders beneath its surface.
Surrounding the beach were pine trees — tall and strikingly vibrant — and the kicker was that behind this thick pine forest, and above water so clean and azure that it looked as if it belonged in the Caribbean, was a backdrop of snowy mountains and a bluebird sky. The combination of everything in that photo awoke something in me. It drew me in so much that I spent my teenage years practically obsessing over this lake straddling the border of California and Nevada. Even travels abroad couldn’t shake my overwhelming desire to be there. I had to see it for myself. I wanted to go to this place that, in that picture, looked too perfect to possibly exist.
Needless to say, I finally went, and it was confirmed to be everything I thought had to be too good to be true. Lake Tahoe is sincerely my favorite place in the American West.
When you approach Tahoe from the south, the first town you’ll arrive at is South Lake Tahoe — which admittedly is my least favorite area of Tahoe, which its large hotels and casinos and busy streets. However, it doesn’t take long at all to escape the souvenir shops and strip malls and head into the Tahoe we love, and the Tahoe I’m writing about.
To drive around the entire lake takes only about three hours if you don’t plan on stopping anywhere (it’s 72 miles but on mostly winding, narrow roads). So in theory, you could see the entirety of the lake in one day — or one half-day, at that. But there are so many beautiful things to see that it feels criminal to only recommend a day or two for what Tahoe has to offer. However, whether you see Tahoe in one trip or multiple, here are some of my favorite bits and pieces of Lake Tahoe.
Let’s start with where you’ll park the night you arrive.
Where to sleep: Mellow Mountain Hostel or William Kent Campground
In all transparency, I haven’t personally stayed at Mellow Mountain Hostel. The original hostel I would always stay at in Tahoe has, apparently, closed since I was last there. This is really unfortunate, as I really enjoyed the vibe, cozy fireplace, convenience, comfortable rooms, and great location in north Lake Tahoe (I’m a firm believer that the north side of the lake is the best side of the lake). However, the reviews I’ve found for Mellow Mountain seem to mark it as being very similar and just as cozy and convenient as my original hostel.
And just like Mammoth Lakes — or anywhere in the Sierras — where you decide to stay overnight will largely depend on the time of year. Many campgrounds are closed after October or November and don’t open until mid-or-late spring. Therefore, a hostel is a good alternative that won’t break your road trip budget.
However, if you arrive in the warmer months and want to opt to camp or sleep in your car, the William Kent Campground is, hands down, my favorite campsite in the area. Not only is it located in the scenic northern part of the lake, but it’s on the lake, allowing almost immediate beach access and incredible views while still feeling tucked away in a shady pine forest.
76 sites
Open mid-May to mid-October
$31 per night (the steep price is made up by the views and amazing location)
Reservations can be made for an additional $10 (and are encouraged over weekends, holidays and summer months)
Note, however, that sometimes this campground can feel quite crowded during busy, warm summer months — and especially over weekends. I’ve always found that this is worth it for the proximity to nearby Tahoe City (don’t be confused by the name, this is merely a charming small town), and of course, being right across the street from the lake.
But for those who want to feel more remote, or want to evade sleeping in a campsite altogether, there are ample camping opportunities down the road toward Truckee and in the Tahoe National Forest. However, the trade off is being further from the lake. It may not feel like much, driving back and forth from camp to the lake, especially if you’re like me and want to venture out often to see the sunrise and sunset over the lake, or explore the little towns along its ring road, it can feel exhausting to constantly be driving back and forth.
Also, there are tough rules in place regarding parking overnight and sleeping in your car. If you decide to sleep on the side of the road, be mindful for loitering rules and parking hours for that specific road, and keep in mind that making a campfire out of a fire ring is illegal.
Not to Miss in Tahoe
Burgers and craft beer at Bridgetender
The best way to end any day in Tahoe is, hands down, with a pint of craft amber ale and a burger dripping with homemade blueberry barbecue sauce and a heaping side of waffle fries, enjoyed in the cozy, dim ambience of the well-loved Bridgetender Tavern in Tahoe City.
Whether it’s my first night arriving in Tahoe and I’ve spent all day in the car, or I’ve been out racking up the miles while hiking up alpine trails, the clamour of the Bridgetender always pulls me in. Be sure you visit, whether settling at the bar with a book or at one of the tables underneath log-paneled walls adorned with antique snowshoes and newspaper clippings about bear sightings in the area. And its convenient location right across the road from the lake makes it a lovely spot for an after-dinner stroll on a warm summer evening.
Sand Harbor, Nevada
This is the Tahoe that was seared into my brain and brought me there all those years later. The boulders, the azure turquoise water, the white sand beach. Tahoe has plenty of stunning beaches, but in terms of solitude and beauty, this is the top. Stop here, even just for a little stroll or picnic on the sand.
Enormous chocolate croissants and a big mug of coffee from the
Tahoe House Bakery
When I first tried a warm chocolate croissant from the Tahoe House Bakery, I didn’t stop thinking about it for a solid year until I was able to go back and have it again. It’s that good. They’re flaky, buttery, actually decadent. Certainly not vegan, so I haven’t had one in a long time — but I must be honest and say that I still dream of them.
The croissant (or a vegan banana muffin) paired with a cup of dark-roast coffee (the best coffee I’ve had on the lake, actually), and fast wifi, a cozy fireplace, and sunken couches makes the Tahoe House Bakery one of my favorite stops when I visit the area. I’m willing to pay good money for a good cup of coffee, and even more money for a great pastry. Even so, the bakery is affordable, and the charming setting (especially in winter when I’m desperate to warm myself by a fireplace for a little while) makes it a lovely place to read a book, flip through the newspaper, or catch up on emails before setting out for the day.
Fallen Leaf Lake
Hidden in a cove of tall pine trees is the three-mile long Fallen Leaf Lake. I hate to think of people who travel to the Tahoe area and miss this, because even though Lake Tahoe is absolutely the crown jewel, Fallen Leaf Lake is a hidden treasure.
Just west of South Lake Tahoe you’ll come across a narrow dirt road on your left that will take you meandering for one mile through sun-dappled pine forests before opening up on this glacier lake. Fallen Leaf Lake is lined with tiny, charming homes (that you will most definitely picture yourself living in, as do I), and ultimately leads to a tiny beach where you can park and have a picnic, go for a hike, or just lounge on the lake’s shore in the sunlight.
Hiking around Emerald Bay
If you’re looking to get some miles under your boots, then I recommend heading to Emerald Bay, where there are countless exceptional hikes and trails. There’s great hiking to be had all over the lake, but I’ve found that Emerald Bay offers the most varied trails, and often have the most exceptional pay-offs.
Whether you just want to hike down to the lake’s edge, or you want to try your hand at Maggie’s Peak, there are trails for people of all fitness levels.
The Town of Truckee
Located 15 miles from Tahoe City or 12 miles from Kings Beach is the little town of Truckee. Truckee’s charming historic downtown area is adorned with antique stores, upscale restaurants as well as local eclectic diners, art galleries, wine tastings, old-school sweets shops selling fudge and caramel apples, a railroad museum… the list goes on. Park your car here one afternoon and stroll down the sidewalks lined with flower-boxes, sidewalk cafes, and colorful shops.
Opportunities to bike, raft, horseback ride, and stand up paddle board, even if you don’t have your own equipment
Just because you arrived in Tahoe with nothing more than a pair of hiking boots doesn’t mean you have to stick exclusively to the trails.
For equestrians, there are a number of stables around the lake that offer trail rides. Here’s a great list of offerings in the south.
And for people who want to give whitewater rafting a try, contact the Truckee River Company, the original whitewater outfitter for the Tahoe area.
When to visit Tahoe: Anytime
In the winter, there’s skiing, snowshoeing, beautiful snowy landscapes, hot chocolate, less crowds, snowfalls, and cozy fires lighting up almost every fireplace. But there’s also icy roads, closed mountain passes, closed campsites, closed trails, mandatory chains for your tires, and the sun sets early.
In the summer, there’s hiking, mountain biking, kayaking, the option to camp, summer concerts on Commons Beach, ease of driving and access, open trails, and warmer weather. But there’s also a lot more tourists (which means busier trails, beaches and parking areas), hiked prices for some hostels and rentals, and more of a need to make reservations or bookings in advance.
In shoulder seasons you certainly get less tourists in general, as well as wildflowers in the spring and smatterings of colorful trees in the fall. However, you should always be aware of closed road passes, and if you opt to visit Tahoe in winter (or late autumn and early spring), know how to put chains on your tires, and be sure you’re confident driving in snowy and icy conditions.
How do I pack and prepare
for a car camping California road trip?
Packing for a road trip, like the one I just described, is similar to packing for any kind of camping trip — the only difference is that you’ll often be sleeping in your car in lieu of a tent.
Here’s a list of what I’ve brought with me every time I’ve set out to explore California in my car.
General Essentials:
Spare tire (and know how to change it)
Up-to-date car documents and license
First aid kit (and know how to use what’s in it)
Pepper spray and an extremely loud whistle (hopefully you’ll never have to use these, obviously, but it always gave me comfort to have, especially when sleeping outside of a campsite and on the side of a road)
Multitool
Compass
Road flares
Emergency thermal blanket
Jumper cables
“Emergency” water (I usually have a 5 liter container I keep and try not to touch unless it’s an emergency — this is in addition to the water I already have for drinking. Always have more water than you think necessary, especially when driving in more remote areas)
Headlamp with spare batteries
Lantern (either solar powered or battery powered with extra batteries)
Detailed road maps
Tire chains
Food & Cooking Supplies:
I keep my meals on the road as simple and filling as possible — mostly because I don’t want a lot of cleanup or hassle when I’m just cooking for myself. But I swear, these meals taste absolutely superb when cooked over an open fire or overlooking a trail vista… or on the side of the highway on a long travel day. I’ll usually have meals such as:
Dinner:
Pasta and jarred sauce (marinara or pesto, typically)
Canned chili on its own or over jacket potatoes (whole potatoes wrapped in tin foil and cooked on the coals of a fire)
Boxed soups
Vegan sausages or burgers (with jacket potatoes)
Quick-cook packets of rice or quinoa (eaten with either beans, soup or on its own)
Lunch:
Bean salad (mixed beans tossed in a dressing, maybe with chopped peppers or carrots)
Peanut butter & jelly sandwiches
Veggie sandwiches or wraps (such as sliced tomatoes, cucumbers, avocado, jalapeños, smeared with pesto, hummus or mustard)
Breakfast:
Granola or cereal with non-dairy milk and fruit
Quick-cook oats with fruit, peanut butter and cinnamon
…or just a banana slathered with peanut butter (let’s be honest, we all know this tastes great)
Tea or coffee (instant coffee, or beans already ground — in that case, don’t forget your french press or percolator)
Snacks:
Granola bars (I like Cliff bars)
Mixed nuts
Hearty vegetables and hummus (baby carrots, chopped bell peppers, cucumbers, etc)
Dark chocolate (and vegan marshmallows and graham crackers and sticks because where there’s a fire, I will be making s’mores)
Fruit (bananas, blueberries, grapes, apples, whatever is available to you — I just don’t like to bring anything that bruises easily, like pears)
Cooking & food supplies:
A proper coolerbox (you can buy ice as you go to keep it cold, just be sure that your cooler properly works before setting out to an area where you won’t be visiting a store for a few days)
One pot (usually all I need, as I make most of my meals in one pot. Bring an extra pan if you also want to do extra things such as sauté veggies or protein)
One bowl and one plate
One chopping board
A good cutting knife
Paper towels and a cloth kitchen towel
Matches and/or a lighter
Fire-making supplies (fire starter, fire container if camping outside of campgrounds, kindling, dry firewood…)
A grate to put over your fire to put your cooking pot on
Spoon, fork, knife, mixing spoon, tongs for the fire
Tin foil
Tupperware
Waste bag to pack out trash
Sponge and biodegradable dish soap
Percolator or french press if you want fresh hot coffee!
Picnic blanket (and optional folding camping chair)
Can opener
Bottle opener
Clothing & Sleeping:
Pillow
Sleeping bag (be sure it’s warm enough! Please! This is critical!)
Sleeping pad (optional, but offers extra comfort)
Thermal leggings and thermal top
Warm, dry socks
Hiking clothes (wicking shirt; water-resistant shorts or pants; waterproof boots)
Driving/everyday clothes (something loose-fitting and comfortable, like shorts or a loose camping dress; I usually have one pair of jeans and a nicer top for the one evening I decide to go to a restaurant)
Rain jacket
Warm, dry sleeping clothes
Lightweight long-sleeved top and long pants for evenings at camp (even in summer months it can get cool in the mountains and even the dessert. This also is great for areas with mosquitos or pesky bugs)
Durable sandals and/or everyday driving shoes (such as Chacos or Tevas)
Down jacket (lightweight and compact but warm)
Warm hat
Swimsuit and sarong
Hat for sun protection
Bug spray
Sunscreen
Sunglasses
Toilet paper, trowel, and bag to carry your used tissue out (if in an area without toilets)
Towel & basic toiletries (biodegradable shampoo and soap, toothpaste, toothbrush)
Odds & Ends:
Battery charger for your phone (with connector cables)
Headphones
Journal and books
The perfect road trip playlist
Your camera, because you’re going to want to remember this
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